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五一漫遊:從「陳奕迅山」開始,尋找香港那些最治癒的風景A May Day Wander: Starting at "Eason Chan Mountain", in Search of Hong Kong's Most Restorative Views

五一長假,暫別商場與主題公園,走進香港的山、海與離島,看看這座城市的慢風景。Over the May Day break, step away from the malls and theme parks and head for Hong Kong's hills, beaches and outlying islands — the slower side of the city.

This article was originally written in Traditional Chinese. The English translation is provided for reference only.

向山野奔赴,放下追逐的腳步Head for the Hills, Leave the Chase Behind

初識香港文化,我聽得最多就是陳奕迅。陳奕迅推出過的其中一張專輯,封面就在大東山拍攝。芒草與石屋之間,氛圍頗具意境。自此,這座被譽為「陳奕迅山」的景點,被不少人爭相打卡。When I was first getting to know Hong Kong culture, the name I heard most often was Eason Chan. One of his albums has a cover photographed on Sunset Peak (大東山), among the silvergrass and the old stone huts — an image full of atmosphere. Ever since, this spot, nicknamed "Eason Chan Mountain", has drawn crowds of visitors after the same shot.

向樹林奔跑,停下忙碌的步調Run for the Woods, Slow Your Pace

更進一步熟悉香港,我便迷上了大棠那一抹鮮紅。踩過鋪滿小徑的枯葉毯,碎裂聲如酥脆的焦糖薄片,被鏡頭定格的瞬間,這個圖景勾畫着亞熱帶的神秘秘境。As I came to know the city better, I fell for that flash of crimson at Tai Tong. Walking over the carpet of fallen leaves along the path, each step crackles like a sheet of brittle caramel; frozen by the camera, the scene looks like a secret subtropical world.

大陸五一假期如約而至,共五天;香港五一連上佛誕,請假一天,也可獲得五天假。在港遊玩度假,除了快節奏的城市生活,我們一起領略一下慢香港。The mainland's May Day break is here again — five days in all. In Hong Kong, Labour Day sits close to the Buddha's Birthday holiday, so a single day of leave also buys you five days off. If you are spending the holiday here, set aside the fast pace of city life for a moment and discover the slower Hong Kong with us.

香港・山Hong Kong · The Mountains

「我們的城市是會走動的,像一尾魚,從一個浪頭躍到另一個浪頭。而獅子山蹲伏如獸,吞下所有遷徙的足印。」——西西《我城》"Our city moves. It is like a fish, leaping from one crest of a wave to the next. And Lion Rock crouches like a beast, swallowing up every footprint of migration." — Xi Xi, My City (《我城》)

獅子山Lion Rock

獅子山山腰遍佈馬尾松、芒草,早上日出前登頂可觀賞九龍晨霧,黃昏可拍攝維港夕照。Masson pines and silvergrass cover the slopes of Lion Rock. Reach the summit before sunrise and you can watch the morning mist over Kowloon; at dusk it is a fine place to photograph the sun setting over Victoria Harbour.

海拔494米的獅子山,橫亙於九龍與新界之間,是香港最具象徵意義的山嶽之一。其獨特的獅形巖峯、草根文化的隱喻,成為香港這座城市的精神載體。At 494 metres, Lion Rock straddles the boundary between Kowloon and the New Territories and is one of Hong Kong's most symbolic peaks. Its distinctive lion-shaped crag, and everything it has come to stand for in the city's grassroots culture, make it a vessel for the Hong Kong spirit.

推薦路線:樂富港鐵站下車,穿過橫頭磡邨,橫過龍翔道,再穿過天馬苑,橫過竹園道,沿上山的樓梯,不久便見獅子山公園。Recommended route: alight at Lok Fu MTR station, walk through Wang Tau Hom Estate, cross Lung Cheung Road, continue through Tin Ma Court, cross Chuk Yuen Road and take the stairs up the hill; Lion Rock Park soon comes into view.

推薦指數:★★★★Rating: ★★★★

太平山Victoria Peak

太平山海拔552米,是香港島上的最高峯,也是俯瞰整個維港的「城市之眼」。北面維港摩天樓,南面薄扶林綠林。Victoria Peak rises 552 metres, the highest point on Hong Kong Island and the "eye of the city" looking down over the whole of Victoria Harbour. To the north stand the towers along the harbour; to the south, the green hills of Pok Fu Lam.

山頂纜車車軌斜斜地劃過山壁,像一柄裁紙刀,將現代與自然的景緻一分為二。The Peak Tram's tracks slice diagonally across the hillside like a paper knife, cutting the view cleanly in two — the modern on one side, the natural on the other.

推薦路線:港鐵中環站J2出口步行10~15分鐘前往中環花園道的山頂纜車站,搭山頂纜車登山(車程約10分鐘)。Recommended route: from Exit J2 of Central MTR station, walk 10 to 15 minutes to the Peak Tram terminus on Garden Road in Central, then ride the tram to the top (about a 10-minute journey).

推薦指數:★★★★★Rating: ★★★★★

大帽山Tai Mo Shan

大帽山海拔957米,是全港最高峯,雄踞在香港新界中部。該山是一座集自然與歷史為一體的山嶽。Tai Mo Shan, 957 metres high, is the tallest peak in Hong Kong, commanding the centre of the New Territories — a mountain where nature and history come together.

當遊客在山頂按下快門,一隻樹蛙正越過溪石,彈奏着比人類歷史更悠久的生命樂章。As visitors press the shutter at the summit, a tree frog is crossing a stone in the stream below, playing a song of life far older than human history.

推薦路線:荃灣港鐵站A出口,轉左見樓梯上去就是前往大帽山的九巴51線巴士站。大家亦可以在荃灣西港鐵站,過馬路到如心廣場下的巴士總站上車,乘搭51號巴士,於「郊野公園」下車!Recommended route: take Exit A of Tsuen Wan MTR station, turn left and go up the stairs to the KMB route 51 stop for Tai Mo Shan. Alternatively, from Tsuen Wan West station, cross the road to the bus terminus beneath Nina Tower, board route 51 and alight at the "Country Park" stop.

推薦指數:★★★★Rating: ★★★★

香港・海Hong Kong · The Sea

「我們在淺水灣拾貝,卻被潮水捲走身份。留下的,只有沙粒般細碎的、發光的虛榮。」——黃碧雲《烈女圖》"We gathered shells at Repulse Bay, and the tide carried our identities away. All that was left was vanity, glittering and as fine as grains of sand." — Wong Bik-wan, Portraits of Martyred Women (《烈女圖》)

半月灣Half Moon Bay

半月灣位於香港西貢,因為形狀像半月形,所以俗稱「半月灣」。半月灣十分受歡迎,水清沙幼,適合游泳和浮潛,是位於西貢的翡翠月牙。Half Moon Bay lies in Sai Kung and owes its popular name to its crescent shape. Clear water and fine sand make it a favourite for swimming and snorkelling — a jade crescent set into the Sai Kung coastline.

推薦路線:由西貢碼頭乘觀光船到半月灣。Recommended route: take a sightseeing boat from Sai Kung Pier to Half Moon Bay.

推薦指數:★★★★★Rating: ★★★★★

淺水灣Repulse Bay

香港島南區的淺水灣為月牙形沙灘,既是富豪隱居地,又是市民的假日樂園。淺水灣是一面稜鏡,折射香港的複雜性。Repulse Bay, in the Southern District of Hong Kong Island, is a crescent of sand that is at once a retreat for the wealthy and a holiday playground for everyone else. It works like a prism, refracting all of Hong Kong's complexity.

推薦路線:中環交易廣場或金鐘站C1出口乘搭6、6X或260號巴士。Recommended route: board bus 6, 6X or 260 at Exchange Square in Central, or at Exit C1 of Admiralty station.

推薦指數:★★★★Rating: ★★★★

香港・島Hong Kong · The Islands

「巖石的褶皺是未被翻譯的史詩,而遊客的快門聲是另一種殖民。」——董啓章《地圖集》"The folds of the rock are an epic no one has translated, and the click of a tourist's shutter is another kind of colonisation." — Dung Kai-cheung, Atlas (《地圖集》)

南丫島Lamma Island

南丫島是香港第三大離島,以中西文化交融與慢節奏的氛圍而出名。這座島嶼有着文青天堂榕樹灣以及充滿傳統漁村風貌的索罟灣。該島既是城市人的逃逸通道,也是文學與生態的實驗場。Lamma is Hong Kong's third-largest outlying island, known for its mix of Chinese and Western culture and its unhurried pace. It has Yung Shue Wan, a haven for the artistic crowd, and Sok Kwu Wan, which still has the look of a traditional fishing village. The island is both an escape route for city dwellers and a testing ground for literature and ecology.

推薦路線:中環4號碼頭出發,前往榕樹灣碼頭或索罟灣碼頭,船程只需30至40分鐘。Recommended route: sail from Central Pier 4 to either Yung Shue Wan Pier or Sok Kwu Wan Pier; the crossing takes only 30 to 40 minutes.

推薦指數:★★★★Rating: ★★★★

長洲Cheung Chau

長洲不像南丫島,抹上了幾分異國情調;長洲更不似大嶼山,被機場和纜車割裂成旅遊區。它擁有的是屬於長洲的獨特味道。它既留存着漁村的風情,又傳承着搶包山的精神。Cheung Chau has none of Lamma's faintly exotic air, nor is it like Lantau, carved up into tourist zones by an airport and a cable car. Its flavour is entirely its own: the atmosphere of a working fishing village, and the spirit carried on each year in the Bun Scrambling Competition.

推薦路線:中環5號碼頭出發。Recommended route: sail from Central Pier 5.

推薦指數:★★★★Rating: ★★★★

蒲台島Po Toi Island

蒲台島被稱作「香港的南極」,孤懸於香港最南端,島上怪石嶙峋,頗具幾分野趣。Po Toi is known as "Hong Kong's South Pole", standing alone at the territory's southernmost tip; its jumble of strange rock formations gives it a wild charm.

渡輪抵達,只見島上雜草叢生,南端的峭壁上,豎着燈塔,佛手巖十分奇特,五根粗短的巖柱拔地而起,活像一尊巨佛手掌。Step off the ferry and you find an island thick with wild grass, a lighthouse standing on the cliffs at its southern end, and the extraordinary Buddha's Palm Rock — five short, thick stone columns rising from the ground like the open palm of a giant Buddha.

推薦路線:可從香港仔或赤柱乘坐渡輪,船程由30分鐘至一小時不等。Recommended route: ferries run from Aberdeen or Stanley; the crossing takes anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour.

推薦指數:★★★★Rating: ★★★★

結語In Closing

香港無疑是購物天堂、美食天堂,其獨特的自然景觀,更令它成為旅遊勝地。當你已經成為這座城市的常客,打卡了太多次主題公園,流連太久在食肆商場,不如換個攻略去體驗。Hong Kong is famously a paradise for shopping and for food, and its distinctive natural scenery makes it a destination in its own right. If you are already a regular here — if you have visited the theme parks one too many times and lingered long enough in the restaurants and malls — try a different itinerary.

香港的自然景觀是一位神秘的魔法師,在鋼鐵森林的夾縫中表演;香港的自然景觀又是一位傑出的鋼琴師,讓都市中繁忙的腳步體驗慢旋律。Hong Kong's landscapes are a mysterious magician, performing in the gaps between towers of steel; they are also a gifted pianist, teaching the city's hurried footsteps a slower melody.

小長假,和香港雙向奔赴吧!This long weekend, go and meet Hong Kong halfway.

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