循作家真情筆觸，探香港文藝勝地 | 老師專欄

告別人滿為患的大眾景點，發掘與眾不同的寶藏勝地。Skip the crowded tourist sights and find the corners of Hong Kong that its writers have loved.

This article was originally written in Traditional Chinese. The English translation is provided for reference only.

正月十五的到來，標誌着中國傳統新年的圓滿落幕。在這段新年假期中，許多人選擇與家人同行，共同遊歷壯美河山，感受各地的風土人情。香港作為備受青睞的旅遊勝地，自然吸引了全球各地的遊客前來探索。除了名聞遐邇的維港夜景、太平山風光、叮叮車之旅，您是否也期待探索別樣的旅行方式，體驗獨特的景緻與文化呢？The fifteenth day of the first lunar month brings the traditional Chinese New Year to a close. Over the holiday many people travel with their families, taking in the landscape and the local customs of the places they visit. Hong Kong, a perennial favourite, naturally draws visitors from all over the world. But beyond the celebrated harbour night view, the scenery from The Peak and a ride on the ding ding trams, might you be hoping for a different kind of journey — for scenery and culture of another sort?

今日，我們另闢蹊徑，化身資深文藝青年，共同開展一場香港文學漫步之旅，探訪文學作品中描述的別樣文藝勝地，體味這座城市獨特的文化魅力。讓我們在文字與現實的交織中，更深層地領略香港的文藝之魂。Today we take the road less travelled. Turning ourselves into seasoned literary wanderers, we set off on a walking tour of literary Hong Kong, visiting the places writers have put on the page and tasting the city’s particular cultural charm. Where the written word and the real street meet, we may come closer to Hong Kong’s artistic soul.

01 都爹利街01 Duddell Street

雨還在下，你還在嗎？人潮往來，光影明滅。煤氣燈仍傲立街邊，階磚路已換了容顏。——也斯《傍晚時，都爹利街》The rain is still falling; are you still here? Crowds come and go, light flickers and fades. The gas lamps still stand proud at the roadside, but the tiled steps have changed their face. — Leung Ping-kwan (Ya Si), “Duddell Street at Dusk” (《傍晚時，都爹利街》)

都爹利街位於香港中環，街道兩旁的建築保留着傳統的風格，且擁有着香港僅存的四盞煤氣燈。香港本土詩人也斯僅寥寥數語便勾勒出都爹利街的獨特韻味。每到夜晚，暖黃色的燈光亮起，狹窄石階、斑駁牆壁，承載着歲月痕跡，彷彿將時光拉回到了舊香港。來這裏取景的電影和電視劇不勝枚舉，都爹利街的文藝氣息和懷舊氛圍，能讓人在繁華的都市中感受到一份別樣的寧靜與浪漫。Duddell Street runs through Central. The buildings on either side keep their traditional character, and the street is home to the last four gas lamps in Hong Kong. In a handful of words, the local poet Leung Ping-kwan captures exactly what makes it distinctive. At night, when the warm yellow light comes on, the narrow stone steps and weathered walls carry the marks of the years and seem to pull time back to an older Hong Kong. Countless films and television dramas have been shot here, and the street’s literary air and nostalgic mood offer a rare pocket of quiet and romance in the middle of a busy city.

香港第一家星巴克Hong Kong’s first Starbucks

更值得一提的是，這裏還有香港第一家星巴克。店內除了提供常規咖啡產品，還提供很多具有港式特色的食物，如菠蘿油、缽仔糕、咖啡蛋撻等等。其中西合璧的獨特風格，吸引了眾多遊客前來品嚐打卡。Worth a mention, too: Hong Kong’s very first Starbucks stands here. Alongside the usual coffee menu it serves a range of local specialities — pineapple buns with butter (菠蘿油), steamed rice puddings (缽仔糕), coffee egg tarts and more. That blend of East and West draws a steady stream of visitors to taste and photograph.

都爹利會館Duddell’s

此外，不得不提的是米其林一星級的都爹利會館（Duddell’s）。會館由知名設計師Ilse Crawford操刀，室內裝潢摩登而不失雅緻。常年陳設個性藝術展品，讓人仿若置身藝術藏家府邸。賓客可在欣賞藝術之美的同時享受米其林大廚主理的精緻佳餚，這樣獨特的用餐體驗不容錯過。Then there is Duddell’s, the one-Michelin-star restaurant and salon. Designed by Ilse Crawford, its interior is modern without losing its elegance, and a standing display of distinctive artworks makes guests feel they have walked into a collector’s home. You can take in the art while eating dishes prepared by a Michelin-starred kitchen — a dining experience worth making time for.

02 淺水灣酒店02 The Repulse Bay Hotel

到了旅館門前，卻看不見旅館在哪裏。他們下了車，走上極寬的石級，到了花木蕭疏的高台上，方見再高的地方有兩幢黃色房子。They arrived at the hotel gate, yet the hotel was nowhere to be seen. They got out of the car, climbed a very broad flight of stone steps to a terrace of sparse flowers and trees, and only then, higher still, saw two yellow buildings.

流蘇一進門便忍不住走向窗口。整個房間像暗黃的畫框，鑲着窗子裏一幅大畫。那濃烈的海濤直濺到窗簾上，把簾子的邊緣都染藍了。——張愛玲《傾城之戀》The moment Liusu stepped inside she could not stop herself going to the window. The whole room was like a dull yellow picture frame set around the great painting held within the window. The dense surge of the sea splashed right up onto the curtains, dyeing their edges blue. — Eileen Chang, “Love in a Fallen City” (《傾城之戀》)

淺水灣酒店始建於1920年，彼時尚無便捷道路通往此地。駐港的西方人士深深迷戀這一片淨土，在周邊山坡上修建了諸多維多利亞式建築，使淺水灣迅速發展成為上流社會、資產階級與貴族們的度假勝地。時至今日，淺水灣酒店不僅憑藉其典雅奢華的建築風格而享譽盛名，更成為香港極具意義的文化與歷史地標。無論是作為度假勝地還是文學藝術的靈感源泉，當你徜徉於此，置身於碧海藍天、金沙輕浪之間，便能切身體會到那獨特的文藝魅力。The Repulse Bay Hotel was built in 1920, at a time when no convenient road ran out to the bay. Westerners living in Hong Kong fell in love with this untouched stretch of coast and put up a great many Victorian-style buildings on the surrounding slopes, and Repulse Bay quickly grew into a holiday resort for high society, the propertied class and the aristocracy. Today the hotel is celebrated not only for its elegant, luxurious architecture but as a cultural and historical landmark of real significance for Hong Kong. Whether you come as a holidaymaker or in search of literary inspiration, standing between blue sea and sky with golden sand and gentle surf at your feet, you feel its particular charm for yourself.

戶外婚禮Outdoor weddings

淺水灣酒店同樣是戶外婚禮的理想之選。新人們在蒼翠草地與碧藍海天的環抱中許下終身誓言，接受親友與大自然的美好祝福。賓客在享用美食的同時，盡覽淺水灣的迷人海景，使幸福時刻更增浪漫情懷。The Repulse Bay is also an ideal setting for an outdoor wedding. Couples exchange lifelong vows surrounded by green lawns and blue sea and sky, blessed by family, friends and the natural setting itself. Guests dine with the bay’s views spread out before them, which only deepens the romance of the occasion.

露台酒吧HAPPY HOURHappy hour on the verandah

每週三晚酒店露台餐廳酒吧的HAPPY HOUR也值得體驗一番。忙碌了一天的人們相聚於此，在輕鬆愜意的氛圍中欣賞夜景，小酌閒聊，盡享歡樂時光。The Wednesday evening happy hour at the hotel’s verandah restaurant and bar is worth trying too. After a busy day people gather here to enjoy the night view in a relaxed, easy atmosphere, drink in hand and conversation flowing.

03 油麻地03 Yau Ma Tei

每天早晨，只要過了八點半，菜市場即迅速膨脹起來。除了原來的雜貨店，鮮魚肉台，燒烤鋪外，行人道上擺着豆腐木格子和整桶的大豆芽。旁邊會是一攤雞蛋，會有雞鴨籠。偶然，有一籠白兔，偶然，又有一籠灰鴿。——西西《我城》Every morning, once half past eight has passed, the market swells rapidly. Besides the grocery shops, the fresh fish and meat counters and the roast-meat stalls, the pavement fills with wooden trays of beancurd and whole barrels of bean sprouts. Next to them there may be a stall of eggs, and cages of chickens and ducks. Now and then a cage of white rabbits; now and then a cage of grey pigeons. — Xi Xi, “My City” (《我城》)

西西平實又溫暖的筆觸，讓我們看到了70年代香港的油麻地民眾的生活百態。她的文字裏充滿着城市的煙火氣息，這裏有熱鬧非凡的早市、琳琅滿目的商品、人聲鼎沸的夜市、飄香四溢的小吃攤，霓虹招牌閃爍，無一不展現着香港最接地氣的一面。Xi Xi’s plain, warm prose shows us everyday life in 1970s Yau Ma Tei in all its variety. Her writing is full of the city’s ordinary bustle: crowded morning markets, goods piled high, night markets loud with voices, food stalls sending their smells down the street and neon signs flickering overhead — every detail showing Hong Kong at its most down-to-earth.

油麻地匯集了眾多歷史悠久的建築和文化遺蹟，充盈着濃厚的香港本土文化氛圍。除了聞名遐邇的廟街夜市與油麻地戲院外，還有頻頻出現在影視劇中的油麻地警署等地標建築。此外，該地區還擁有眾多小型畫廊、傳統茶館和書店，是藝術愛好者和文藝青年的理想去處，充滿了生活氣息和文藝情懷。Yau Ma Tei is dense with long-standing buildings and cultural relics, and thick with local Hong Kong atmosphere. Beyond the famous Temple Street night market and the Yau Ma Tei Theatre there are landmarks such as the old Yau Ma Tei Police Station, a regular fixture on screen. The district also has any number of small galleries, traditional teahouses and bookshops, making it an ideal destination for art lovers and anyone drawn to the literary side of the city — full of everyday life and of feeling for the arts.

油麻地果欄Yau Ma Tei Fruit Market

如果該區域只選一處到訪，那必定是油麻地果欄了。油麻地果欄其前身為九龍水果批發市場，建於1931年，褪色的招牌、陳舊的中式建築、生鏽的50年代摺疊門，充滿了復古氛圍。作為香港著名的市井地標，《旺角卡門》、《九龍城寨之圍城》等等大電影都在此取景，吸引了眾多遊客和影迷前來打卡。If you visit only one place in the district, make it the Yau Ma Tei Fruit Market. Built in 1931 as the Kowloon wholesale fruit market, it is all faded shop signs, weathered Chinese-style buildings and rusting 1950s folding gates — thoroughly retro. As one of Hong Kong’s best-known street-level landmarks it has appeared in major films including “As Tears Go By” (《旺角卡門》) and “Twilight of the Warriors: Walled In” (《九龍城寨之圍城》), drawing tourists and film fans alike.

04 石水渠街04 Stone Nullah Lane

從稅務大樓出來，橫過幾條大道就可以到石水渠街，我要到那兒買一把野薑花。窄窄的石水渠街是一個露天市場，擠擠攘攘的，人情味十足。鞋店前放着幾個水桶，火百合、滿天星、野薑花，隨性地「扔」在裏面，愛買不買。——龍應台《龍應台的香港筆記@沙灣徑25號》Come out of the Revenue Tower, cross a few main roads, and you reach Stone Nullah Lane, where I go to buy a bunch of ginger lilies. The narrow lane is an open-air market, packed tight and full of human warmth. Buckets stand outside the shoe shop with fire lilies, baby’s breath and ginger lilies tossed casually inside — buy them or don’t. — Lung Ying-tai, “Lung Ying-tai’s Hong Kong Notebook: 25 Sha Wan Drive” (《龍應台的香港筆記@沙灣徑25號》)

位於灣仔北的石水渠街是一條歷史悠久的街道，街道北端有著名的藍屋，南端則有北帝廟及石水渠街花園。龍應台用細膩的筆觸刻畫出石水渠街的獨特人情。熙熙攘攘的石水渠街露天市場中，鄰里鄉親忙碌着採買閒談，氛圍祥和而溫馨。來自南丫島的野薑花更為這條街道平添了一抹自然的詩意。漫步其中，感受香港最真實樸質的市井氣息，彰顯出這座城市深厚的文化底蘊。Stone Nullah Lane, in northern Wan Chai, is a street with a long history: the famous Blue House stands at its northern end, and the Pak Tai Temple and Stone Nullah Lane Garden at its southern end. Lung Ying-tai’s fine-grained prose captures the particular human texture of the place. In the crowded open-air market, neighbours go about their shopping and their chatting in an atmosphere that is calm and warm, and ginger lilies brought over from Lamma Island lend the street a touch of natural poetry. Walk through it and you meet the most genuine, unadorned side of Hong Kong street life — and in it, the depth of the city’s culture.

Samsen泰國船麵Samsen Thai boat noodles

若到訪此地，多年榮獲米其林推薦的Samsen泰國船麵一定不要錯過。招牌和牛船麵湯底濃郁清甜，層次豐富，搭配入味腍滑的和牛肉與脆腍的炸豬皮條，粉麵口感彈牙，着實令人回味無窮！If you are in the area, do not miss Samsen, the Thai boat-noodle restaurant that has been Michelin-recommended for years. The broth of the signature wagyu boat noodles is rich, clean and sweet, with real depth, served with tender wagyu that has taken on all the flavour of the soup, crisp strips of fried pork skin and springy noodles beneath. Genuinely memorable.

1 香港文藝散步路線指南1 A guide to Hong Kong’s literary and artistic walks

除了以上提及的經典文藝勝地，小編還推薦以下幾個別具風味的地點：Beyond the classic spots above, here are a few more places with a flavour all their own.

大南街文創空間（港鐵深水埗站）：小黃樓和3D立體熊是許多文青到港必打卡的首選，打完卡還可以逛逛附近的咖啡館、文創空間、書店和二手CCD相機攤，感受香港街區文化的生機與活力。Tai Nan Street creative quarter (MTR Sham Shui Po station): the little yellow building and the 3D bear are near-obligatory photo stops for young creatives visiting Hong Kong. Once you have your picture, browse the cafés, design studios, bookshops and second-hand CCD camera stalls nearby, and take in the energy of a Hong Kong neighbourhood.

中環街市（中環皇后大道中93號）：這裏不但有最地氣的港式美食，還有充滿驚喜的精品小店。你還可以跟着電影《無名》打卡拍攝地點，拍出片中演員同款姿勢的大片！Central Market (93 Queen’s Road Central): as well as the most down-to-earth Hong Kong food, it is full of surprising little boutiques. You can also track down the locations used in the film “Hidden Blade” (《無名》) and strike the same poses as the cast.

中環壁畫線（港鐵中環站D2出口步行約十分鐘）：高樓林立的中環街道裏有着不同的塗鴉牆。其充滿活力、繽紛絢麗的圖案，讓這個城市與眾不同！The Central mural trail (about ten minutes on foot from exit D2 of MTR Central station): tucked among Central’s high-rises are walls of graffiti whose vivid, brilliantly coloured designs give the city a character all of its own.

嘉鹹街（港鐵中環站D2出口步行約十分鐘）：嘉鹹街的壁畫描繪出香港過去的樣子，壁畫上復古與摩登的風格碰撞，讓香港增添了不少色彩。Graham Street (about ten minutes on foot from exit D2 of MTR Central station): the murals here picture Hong Kong as it once was, retro and modern styles colliding on the wall and adding a good deal of colour to the city.

2 2025年上半年香港主要藝術文化展覽匯總2 Major art and culture exhibitions in Hong Kong, first half of 2025

塞尚和雷諾阿的世界——法國橘園美術館及奧賽博物館珍藏展Cézanne and Renoir: Looking at the World — Masterpieces from the Musée de l’Orangerie and the Musée d’Orsay

時間：2025年1月17日至5月7日；地點：香港藝術館。Dates: 17 January to 7 May 2025. Venue: Hong Kong Museum of Art.

香港首個以兩位法國印象派巨匠為主題的大型展覽，展出52幅國寶級畫作。展覽更加入塞尚和雷諾阿模擬對話活動，讓觀眾進入他們的內心世界，以全新角度了解大師們的生活軼事和深厚情誼。Hong Kong’s first large-scale exhibition devoted to these two giants of French Impressionism, with 52 paintings of national-treasure status. An imagined conversation between Cézanne and Renoir invites visitors into the two men’s inner worlds and offers a fresh angle on their lives and their close friendship.

巴塞爾藝術展Art Basel香港展會Art Basel Hong Kong

時間：2025年3月28日至30日；地點：香港會議展覽中心。Dates: 28 to 30 March 2025. Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

匯聚42個國家及地區總共241間國際頂尖藝廊，聚焦亞洲及其他地區的藝術創作，超過半數參展藝廊來自亞太地區。241 leading international galleries from 42 countries and territories, with a focus on art from Asia and elsewhere; more than half of the exhibiting galleries come from the Asia-Pacific.

Art CentralArt Central

時間：2025年3月26日至30日；地點：中環海濱活動空間。Dates: 26 to 30 March 2025. Venue: Central Harbourfront Event Space.

全球頂級藝術作品展，毗鄰維多利亞港，參觀者在欣賞藝術作品的同時，亦可享受迷人的海濱美景。A showcase of top-tier work from around the world, set right beside Victoria Harbour, so visitors can enjoy the waterfront views along with the art.

結束語In closing

香港，這座充滿魅力的城市，以其獨特的本土風情和豐富的文化藝術活動，吸引着無數人前來探尋。讓我們跟隨文學的腳步，去發現更多香港的美好，感受這座城市的靈魂與魅力。相信在這片土地上，還有更多的文藝寶藏等待着我們去挖掘和品味。Hong Kong draws countless visitors with its distinctive local character and its full calendar of arts and culture. Follow in literature’s footsteps and you will discover more of what makes the city beautiful, and something of its soul. There are surely more literary and artistic treasures on this small piece of ground, waiting to be uncovered and savoured.

循作家真情筆觸，探香港文藝勝地In the Footsteps of Writers: A Literary Walk Through Hong Kong